This will make it act like new and register up to 2 master keys and 1 sub key. This will take maybe 5 minutes (process time).Ĭoming in at about $300 and in second place for speed with time estimates from a couple hours to "all day" (with "about a week" for mail order options), you can have a auto locksmith reflash, or 'virgin', your ECM. Good if you just want one key and don't care about being able to quickly/cheaply/easily make more. The fastest is to fork over $100 to an auto locksmith to "clone" your sub key (writing the identifier number from the OEM onto the replacement, vehicle thinks it's the same key ~ they are like Siamese twins). In any case, these 2 methods do not work on the 3rd gen 4runner. So Toyota divorced the 2, gave the immobilizer it's own unit in later models and THAT can be reset with specific voltage changes (I assume with Techstream as well). Their first go had them include the immobilizer in with the main ECM (our vehicles), but it was costly to fix the 'all keys lost' issue. And the second is that you can just jumper 2 pins on the OBDII port, but this relates to a Later version of the Toyta Immobilizer system. I was pretty confident it wasn't possible since I have their main diagnostic device (Techstream) myself. I spent a few hours at a couple different dealers in the area, letting the techs give it their best and no one could do it. The first is that the dealer can reprogram, and even the techs swear up and down that it's possible. There are 2 prevailing myths that I busted. If it doesn't go off, but your vehicle starts. If it goes off Immediately, you have a Master key. If it stays lit for a few seconds, then goes off. How do you know what kind of key you have? Watch the Security light when you put the key in the ignition. This is important, because if you have only a "sub" key and you want more keys, you have no great options. I mentioned above about "Valet" being used to describe a immobilizer function known as a "sub" key. This is where most of the headaches appear. You can change the volume of the "Chirp" ~ keyless entry beep volume
Programming instructions : Programming Instructions for keyless entry remote? (NOTE: the 4runner has notorious weak lock actuators, they work better when cold so do it in the early morning and some have had luck using a key to physically assist) There are already a LOT of good posts on this, including how to determine which you have, here are just a couple:ġ996~1998 only had the "dealer" installed RS3000 which would only lock/unlock doors (no rear window action), info here: Ī Toyota TSB on identifying the different systems (pictures of the remotes, FCC info, etc): Out of 4 keys bought, one of the cheapest has a bad transponder chip and won't work, so buyer beware (but I also paid the same for 4 as the dealer wanted for 1).Īgain, there are 2 options here with 1999 being the first of the "factory" installed vs dealer installed. I managed to find One ebay seller with an OEM-feel key for $10/shipped.
The OEM's have a nice "soft" rubber feel and some heft, the knock-offs are really light and have that obnoxious hard plastic. They're $30 through the dealer and down to about $5 for a Chinesium knock-off. Toyota Transponder Key TOY43AT4 692062 89785-26020 which has a 4C transponder chip. I have a '99 Limited, so that's the info I looked up regarding keys: "Valet" has also taken on a different meaning with the Immobilizer, as a substitute for a "sub" key, but I'll get into that later. The VIN code will work in all locks, unlike the "Valet" key which won't work in some locks like the glovebox.
The dealer can cut your keys from VIN, mine even did it for free (even with outside purchased key blanks). And the metal/plastic transponder keys which made their appearance in 1999. There are 2 different keys for the 3rd Gen, all metal which Should be 1996~1998 for all, and (maybe, some) 1999~2000 for the non-Limited ~ basically the vehicles without the Immobilizers. This Should be simple, but there's still confusion out there. 3 basic sections and I'm going to hit them in order. So I'm going to try and break this down, all in one thread to Maybe help someone in the future have a better head start on getting whatever their issue my be, resolved. This has been a long road, I've seen a lot of bad information, a good bit of confusion in the forums and met with a TON of dumbfound/confused looks/awkward pauses on the phone. so no photos or video to aid those with short attention span issues, sorry. I'm old, I digest info best with just words. Let me apologize in advance, this is a wall of text. How I went from 1 sub/valet key to 3 master keys for about $100 (you can do it cheaper)